Walking the Streets of Delhi

Location: Delhi, India
Local Time: Monday, Oct 10, 2005 - 10:00am

I didn't feel the earthquake. Don't know anything about it. Just thought I'd get that out of the way since a couple people have asked already.

I went walking in the center of New Delhi yesterday. It seems that Delhi is composed of 7 old cities. I am in New Delhi which is one of the 7cities.

As it happens, yesterday was Sunday, though I thought it was Saturday until at least half way through. So most of the shops and so forth were all closed during my walk. I was looking for a place to cash some travellers cheques, but no luck. Today I will go to the bank across the street.

The street vendors here are much more persistant than in Mexico. I have had people walk with me for 3-4 blocks talking the whole time a mile a minute about how I should come check out their shop, it is just around the corner, I don't have to buy anything, just a quick look, they have many wonderful things, etc. Saying no just encourages them. Saying anything just encourages them. Saying nothing, and stepping around them when they get in the way, seems to cut the following distance down to a single block. It goes against my Canadian good manners but actually speaking to them does not make a point. No matter how many nos you say out loud, they don't get it.

I had an experience with one of those scams that I was frequently warned about before arriving here. I was walking down the street and a fellow started walking beside me. He offered to sell me post cards or something but I didn't even say anything, so he started talking to me, where are you from, first time in India, etc. Naturally I answered. Since I was out walking, exploring, I didn't know where I was or where I was going, and that kind of thing is pretty obvious. The fellow walking beside me starts telling me about a tourist information place where I can get a free map, I don't have to buy anything. I don't know what made me say yes, I already had a map in my guide book, but I agreed, and he took me back the way I had come. We crossed the street and then went into some back alleys. I almost turned around and went out at this point as the alleyways were looking pretty dodgy, but my 'guide' was persistent and told me this was a very old part of town, from when the British were there and the tourist place is just around the corner.

So, I followed. He points out the tourist information center to me, and I go in, leaving my 'guide' behind. His job was done, he got me there. From what I understand, such people get a little payment for each person they can get to the building.

I'm directed into an office where I ask about the map. I have heard about similar experiences from friends who came to India, and read about them in my guide book so I'm really suspicious now. When the fellow leaves the office to get the map, I step out into the corridor and wait there, prepared to leave.

When he gets back with the map, he casually talks to me, asking where I want to go next. I mentioned Dharamsala, and the next thing I know I'm back in the office waiting while they check on bus availability to Dharamsala.

The fellow behind the desk phones someone and speaks another language, possibly Hindi. I hear the word Dharamsala. Then he says something about calling back in English and hangs up. As we are sitting waiting, he starts telling me that the bus to Dharamsala takes 14 hours, and there is another, better route.

Using the map of India in front of him, he draws a big hook that goes north from Delhi into Kashmir, then back south again to Dharamsala. Now I'm very suspicious. My guide book says:

"Although technically open to visitors, the Kashmir Valley, for all it's undeniable beauty, remains a war zone we strongly recommend you steer clear of - hence the absence of a chapter on the region in this book."

The incense in the room is giving me a headache, but I know I'm not going to Kashmir.

The fellow behind the desk continues to talk to me, telling me how this is a better trip, and he sent an Italian couple up there not long ago. He even gets a photo album out and starts showing me photos, telling me how nice it is up there, how the hiking up there is much better than around Dharamsala. Then he begins to tell me that the road to Dharamsala is probably closed, he heard somewhere that it is closed.

When I show no response, he phones his friend again, this time speaking English, asking about bus times, and checking the road condition. He asks several times if the road is open, because he has heard it is closed. Finally he hangs up and says the bus with space still available is 3 days from now and I should book the ticket now, implying that he can do that for me.

Another common scheme in India is for people to say they can book bus or train tickets for you, take your money and give you a fake or unconfirmed ticket in exchange, so I'm feeling even more suspicious now. So, I say I have a friend who will meet me in Dharamsala and I have to check with my friend when we are going. He persists, telling me that there is only that one day available, and maybe it won't be available for long, and I should book now. I repeat I have to talk to my friend, stand up and leave.

Maybe he was on the level, but I don't think so.